In Praise of Rural Portugal
When I first discovered Portugal in the mid-1990’s, I was enchanted by this beautiful country situated on the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula. For a country roughly the size of Maine or Indiana, there was an incredible diversity of places to visit, from the history and vibrancy of the metropolitan areas of Lisbon and Porto, to the beauty of the Atlantic coast and the Algarve, to the rugged interior of the North with its castles and natural beauty.
Unfortunately, at least for me, Portugal is no longer the undiscovered gem of the 1990’s. Tourism has increased dramatically in the past 30 years, with Portugal now seeing 26.5 million non-resident tourists in 2023 compared to less than 10 million in 1995 (the total population of Portugal is only 10.4 million). According to Conde Nest, Portugal is now the 4th most Googled tourist destination worldwide. The explosion has been particularly noted in the capital, Lisbon, as well as in the Algarve and in Porto. Lisbon itself received 6.5 million visitors in 2023, with over 750,000 arriving by cruise ships. Travel forums frequently comment now on the crowds at the most popular tourist sites, something I have witnessed myself with dismay.
So what is an unapologetic lover of Portugal to do? The answer is simple – go to the country, go rural. There is so much more to see than the monuments and castles of metro Lisbon. And remember, nearly all of Portugal is easily accessible within a few hours’ drive from airports in either Lisbon or Porto.
For those wishing to explore rural Portugal, I would recommend spending some time in the Northeast, in particular in a region referred to as the Beiras. While this encompasses an area from the Atlantic to the Spanish border, I especially love the region more to the east. Some of this is related to the fact that I was first exposed to this area through my wife and her family, but my love of the region has not diminished over the years.
So why do I love this area so much? The answer to this will take some time and words. When I first came “to the north” as my wife’s family referred to it, I was taken with the rugged beauty of the relatively arid landscape. The hills at the base of the Serra da Estrela (Portugal’s highest mountain chain) are littered with massive boulders, remnants of the last Ice Age and glaciation. It was such a different landscape than anything I had grown up seeing on the east coast of America. I just haven’t seemed able to stop taking photos of these massive rocks over the past 30 years.
And then there’s the Serra itself. The mountain range towers over the region, and offers beautiful views, hiking, camping, and even skiing in the winter months. The western exposures are stark and relatively barren, with expansive views across a broad valley extending nearly to the coast itself. The eastern side is forested, presenting a completely different experience, extending to the border with Spain. Two lane roads wind through the mountain range, offering many sites to view and explore.
The impressive scenery is just the start of the exploration of the region. Scattered along the border with Spain are historic and well-preserved castles and towns. Roman ruins are sprinkled throughout the region. Prehistoric monuments (dolmens) and settlements, medieval granite burial tombs (necropoli), and a treasure trove of prehistoric cave art (Vale de Coa) are all within a short drive. And for the more adventurous, the Douro River valley, Porto, Coimbra,and Salamanca are all easy day trips. I’ll talk more about these areas in upcoming posts.
Beyond the scenery and the history, these areas are much less crowded than Lisbon, the Algarve, and Porto. They feature the true warm hospitality of the Portuguese people, and the incredible Portuguese cuisine.
As you can see, rural Portugal has so much to offer, and all without the elbows and aggravations of the most popular tourist sites of Lisbon, the Algarve, and Porto. Get away from the crowds and tourist traps, take a deep breath (or two) and relax your shoulders. Make sure to include this area in your travel plans!
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